Saturday, August 30, 2014

The Queen & her band of merry thieves
(Scotland-Ireland-England)

Scotland
There're few places on this wide earth that I would want to go back see again, well, for a simple reason. There's so much to see and so little time, who has the time to see the same place twice over? Maybe when I am done with one go around, see what I mean? But Edinburgh is an exception, in every sense of the word. When I set eyes on this beautiful city 9 months ago, I knew I had to bring Sweetie back. 

How a city can blend in ancient and contemporary so seamlessly, I will never know. But that is what Scotland is in general. You pass through rolling hills, highlands, sprawling lowlands with castles sprinkled all over the place, and there's something about incessant rain that makes it all oh so dreamy. Time seems to tick slower than usual, the Gallic music in the background seems to achieve that as you are transported into the auld world, of wars, of fire and swords. 

As you walk down the closes of Edinburgh, you cannot help but fall in love with everything this city is made of, of the incredible history that has lead to present day. I know one thing for sure - I will love Edinburgh like I love few other cities, twice over and I know this twice as surely, I have surely not had my fill. When it's time for a do over around the world, Scotland is going to be on top of my list. Till then, cheers Scotts! 

Ireland
Traveling to Ireland has been a long overdue check off my bucket list. And now that I've been here for a few days, this beautiful little country has blown me away. You get to drive end to end in about 4 hours, longer if you want to take the scenic countryside routes and oh, the countryside routes are the way to go. Castles every 20 kilometers, homes painted bright blue, yellow and red, potted planters with the most beautiful flowers almost as if, they are all there to greet the passing visitors. It's all too beautiful to appear almost unreal, like it was setup somehow, like the front porches are facades to nothingness behind. Fortunately, that is not true and every nook and corner is wonderfully real. If the weather stayed at 17c throughout the year, I would move here in a heartbeat. Quaint doesn't begin to define the unadulterated beauty of this island. 

If you ever choose to bring yourself to Ireland, rent a car. There's nothing like exploring this wonderful country at your own pace. Time seems to slow down as you stare at sprawling specks of green interspersed with cows, sheep and painted houses. Every lookout is a scenic one, every turn around the corner has something incredible to offer. You want to be able to get off and press the pause button on time as you fill your Iungs with the fresh air and your heart with joy of nature's bounty.

Getting myself to Ireland has been a long standing dream and one that I plan to relive many more times before I am done with planet earth. 

England
There are places I look forward to see and some I am meh about. I have to admit to being pretty meh about London. Mainly because big cities are concrete jungles and so made up, in that sense.  And then I visit with some great colleagues/friends a few years ago and I am so pleasantly surprised! One of the reasons I decide to bring Sweetie back to see this beautiful concrete loveliness. London has a little for everyone - the museum enthusiast, the city lover, the art nerd, the foodie. Truly a melting pot whether your pockets are deep or shallow. Modern day London population is beige in the true sense of the word. Crowd watching always pleases me so very much, one of the reasons I love cities with great public transportation systems. Time seems to go slow as you stare into nothingness and yet look around and absorb so very much. 

And then there's the prehistoric beauty of the Stonehenge. Depending on your pair of eyes, you either see an overpriced viewing of a bunch of rocks placed randomly together or you see nothing less than a feat of science and human brain in the face of primitive tools. I loved every bit of my trip out there, the ride through the English countryside, getting drenched in the rain (the only day when we didn't carry umbrellas) as we stared at the stones in awe, having a moment of silence amidst hoards of people around.

Every trip sends me back with lessons and eye openers, makes me a little more humbled - the realization that we are but a speck in this humongous world, that our issues and worries and wants are so petty in comparison to all the beauty and enormousness of this big wide world, that there is so much to take and learn from each of these 10 day pilgrimages of sorts that we are so fortunate to have the ability to take. 

Till next time, cheers!

Thursday, October 17, 2013

The alleys of Europe (Paris, Lisbon, Espana)


The past 2 weeks have been like traveling back and forth in time through a high powered time machine. High fashion interspersed with little winding alleys, centuries of history mixed with cutting edge modernism.

This year's Europe treat begins in Paris. Ah Paris! Last time we were there, it was snowing cats and dogs. We got rain this time over, so that must mean we have another trip due in summer :) Paris has a little something for the multiple personalities in me - the wanderlust, the dreamer, the fashionista, the foodie. This time we wandered down some non-tourist treaded paths. How amazing it must be to have Paris as your backyard! How it must feel to run by the Louvre at 6Am in the morning, to have that first date by the Siene, to run down (of course in high heels!) to work with the Eiffel Tower in the background. I can never have enough of Paris. I want to be born a Parisian in my next life.

Lisbon & vicinity - A mere 2 hour plane ride takes you back in time, to the land of explorers, castles and the adventurous. Lisbon is a little city with a big soul! Sintra is a little city about an hour from Lisbon but an era backwards in time. A land of castles, greenery and mystery. I have always been enamored by the way castles are built. The extent to which we humans go to protect what's ours. These castle walls must hold so many tales, if only they could talk! Day 2 in Lisbon, we hit Belem. Portugal, due to being conveniently located by the ocean, lended it's people, the unique opportunity to explore lands unknown. Vasco da Gama left off on one such journey to India from the port of Belem. Belem also houses the beautiful Jeronimos monastery, where he now sleeps. There is something about that monastery that makes me want to wander back there again. So serene and simple. Kinda like you want life to be , you know. I remember having a subtle smile all through my walk down this wonderful place. One day, I am going back.

Espana: Madrid - Madrid really surprised me. I had this impression of a really stuck up place but I was pleasantly surprised. The women love their shoes (always a treat to watch), the train system is awesome, the sights are pretty, the city never sleeps and even at midnight, the buses and train stations are dominated with women almost always riding by their own, which probably means that the city is pretty safe. Food markets always please me (remind me of the mandis in India) and Mercado de San Miguel is a sight for sore eyes. Wander down those narrow alleyways and you would eat anywhere from a baklawa to padron peppers washing everything down with some freshly squeezed juice. A real treat! A walk down all the way from an ancient Egyptian temple to Retiro park and Madrid is now so familiar, so non-pretentious. Evening walks with a breeze through your hair, crowded streets at midnight, the best Indian food ever, I am taking a piece of Madrid with me for good.

Espana: Sevilla - It was like getting thrown out of a roller coaster into a moonlight boat ride, Madrid to Sevilla. It's so much more than meets the eye, this wonderful city. We were located in the historic district where the streets are narrow, the people are warm, and the alleyways have this sort of cool air blowing through them. Remind me of some streets in my village back home. Sevilla is a small city with a huge heritage. See the flamenco in Sevilla. So authentic, doesn't feel like a tourist trap, these dancers have been at this art for decades. The cathedral is pretty non-pretentious given its only the 3rd biggest basilica in Europe. It's grandeur makes me wonder the extreme extents to which man will go to build for a power that is unseen. Religion and the power it wields is more apparent in Europe more than anywhere else in the world. The lengths to which humans go to celebrate God. Beautiful nevertheless. The Alaczar is just as pretty with its beautiful Islamic style architecture all so well preserved! Moonlight walks to Plaza de Espana, the cool breeze, counting the bicycle lane markers as I balanced on them, Sevilla is going to remain etched in my memory.

Espana: Barcelona - Oh! What a transformation from quaint Sevilla! Right after I landed, I knew this city was going to be a party! There isn't much I can say that has not already been said about this wonderful city. What struck me most was how the city beautifully balances the old and the new, spewn with Gaudi's eccentricity along with modernistic influences, the city sure knows to adapt. This is one of those cities I can totally move to and love it. Not to mention, the futbol fervor makes me want to be one of them crazies!

As this trip draws to an end, my soul is filled with life-lessons, experiences that are priceless, people watching that is always so enriching. I wish I have, the health to travel for as long as I want to. I wish I have, the curiosity of a 10 year old, to learn and absorb and fill my life with journeys like this one. Miles to go, miles to go, before I sleep.

Thursday, November 15, 2012

Prague diaries

Every country, every city I visit, I leave with a distinct impression of the place. One word to describe it all. Italy was soulful, Tahiti was peace, Amsterdam was rebellious, Paris was glamorous, Brazil was vigor.

Every evening for the past 5 days, I have walked the streets of Prague, switched trains doing my usual bit of people-watching and here's the rub - Men in Prague look into their woman's eyes. A seemingly mundane piece of information but something most people of many cultures take for granted. There's the acne faced teenager with the bespectacled girl, that rocker chick sitting on the surprisingly well dressed boy's lap, the twenty something year olds getting back from what is probably their first jobs - they all have one thing in common. They look into each other eyes when they talk. Feels almost like they look into each other's souls. I couldn't stop basking in the glory of so much romance. I couldn't stop smiling, I couldn't help but notice how simple life really is. Look into the eyes of someone you love and you'll see it. The joy of being someone's life and breath is just priceless.


So there you have it folks - I've found the cutest couples in the world, ones who bring so much freshness to the magic that is love, in this little city of Prague. The sights and views, the buildings and monuments, all seem pale in front of this incredible experience.

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Amsterdam-Paris-Brussels Series

I can never have enough of Europe. Every country, every city has so much to offer. A trip here, pick any city, feeds your soul. I live in a parallel world when I walk through her streets, almost transported cerebrally to the times when the stones were laid on the streets, when the bricks were placed one on top of another to build these massive pieces of beauty.

Amsterdam - I'll be honest. Amsterdam was more a city to cross off my list. Nothing more. I was almost reluctant to give up 2 of my Paris days to this city. I must say, I am pleasantly surprised by everything this beautiful city has to offer, so much so that, I am coming back in summer. To walk the streets some more, to party a lot more, to stare at people walking on the sides of the canal, to walk around Dam Square, to take the trams, to grab the BEST hot chocolate from Coffee City (if you are in Amsterdam, you have to try this, and make it a good one, with whipped cream, yes, please!). If I had the time and money, I would visit every place in Europe in summer and winter. The personality of every city is such a beautiful antithesis in these 2 seasons.  The canals are just as surreal, the water, just as magical. A museum lover that I am, I enjoyed the Van Gogh museum very much. The eccentric, raw, not-perfect art is very endearing.

A walk through the red light district and you see this - A massive church towers your head bang in the center of the district - terribly ironical, I think. Note that the city's very safe, walking the streets at 2AM doesn't give me the jitters, everything is right in the face but not vulgar at all. I stare at the women in the brightly lit red doors and at the risk of sounding philosophical, I will say this. They describe Amsterdam perfectly - it is what it is and it's not apologetic about it. That's what I take from this quaint-loud city. A mighty sound take-away, to say the least. To Paris. I am ready to be swept off my feet and be romanced till my head hurts.

Paris - What can I say about Paris that hasn't been said a million times over? The city cannot be seen completely in a lifetime, IMO. If you manage to leave with a happy sigh, you've probably gotten a taste of what will be, a lifelong addiction. I am one of those lucky ones. I must have been out of my mind to not pack my bags and be here sooner, I think, as I stare out of the window of Thalys. The city is dirty, crowded, the people bump into you as they rush into the morning train, no one cares to smile at you - I feel at home. This city has got attitude. Every bit that you've heard is true and then a little more. And I LOVE that! The women  (and men) are so chic, and despite the fashion, beauty and layers of makeup, they are real. As real as real can be. I LOVE that.  Did some of the usual sights, the Notre Dame, as stunning as in the books. A pleasant surprise, Sacra Coeur presents a beautiful view of Paris, and despite the cloudy day, the walk up was just great. A merry-go-round lies at the base of the massive church, all of two levels of joy. From here, you take about 80 steps to what is a great feat of architecture. You look back and voila! Paris, in all it's glory. I always get quiet in churches. I think it's the awe at the lengths humans go to unite into one belief. The lengths humans go to be followers of a faith. Its eerie, calming and humbling, all in the 15 minutes of sitting down. The walk down is just as pleasant, there's this cute little biscuit store right in the middle of a narrow cobbled street. Ah, the smells and sights! I seem to have a smile that lasts for > 5 secs which is my usual average. The day ends with a stop at Trocadero, and as I walk out of the train station, I look at Sweetie and say "something big's around the corner". The Eiffel is smaller than I've imagined it. It isn't less grand though. The air in the Trocadero square is chilly. They need to have a cafe or something, where people can sit and stare at the Eiffel
in winter. The view from up here is just beyond words. One of those few moments that have me at a loss for words.

The next day starts with crepes, cappuccinos and the best omelette I've ever eaten made with just egg whites. The guy who served us is a French speaking black man, extremely personable; these are the kinds of people I take back with me. Such a beautiful person! An ambitious day ahead. The Arc do Triomphe is the first stop. I almost didn't believe my sister when she said she could spend weeks in Champs Elysse. Now I have 3 words for her - let's.go.together. The walk down Champs Elysse is a fashionista's dream. I need a full 3 days just on this street to not feel cheated. The day ends with Musee de Louvre. I love what they've done with the entrance of the museum - the Carrousel houses all the big brands, with a half eaten apple symbol right next to the entrance - Yes,  Mr. Jobs' shop has moved in. Fitting, given everything in there is as artistic as the  pieces inside, me thinks. The best decision taken during this trip was to visit the museum at 5:30PM on a Wednesday with 4 hours to spend with art. There was no crowd in the Louvre. I was able to stare at the Mona Lisa without being herded like a cow. By no means do I feel that I am done with the Louvre. I am in search of a museum nerd to go with, the next few times over.

I am just beginning to imagine living in Paris. If I were to move to Europe (read, if I had to), I'm coming here, to add to the population density. I'll be bitter, bitchy and beautiful and I'll LOVE it! Off to the historic city of Brugge for a day. The trip ends with a major geek fest in Brussels and I couldn't be more thrilled about it!

Brugge - More often than not, I find that it's the smaller historic towns that grab my attention more than lighted cities. Brugge was such a delight! Reminded me of San Gimignano. The cobbled streets surrounded by buildings with exposed brick, cafes that make your nose go warm within 5 seconds of getting in, the best hot chocolate topped with whipped cream, tea rooms, tiny little chocolatier stores, semi-frozen lakes with swans and modest churches with smells that remind me of little churches in Italy (it's some specific incense), the town of Brugge is just so cute. My mind decided that it was time to wake up at 4AM, by 5:30AM, it was time to go hunting and gathering, except nothing is open in a small town at that time. A 45 minute walk in -11 degrees is pleasant when you finally have accepted that layers (and more layers) are your friends. The city of Brugge is much more beautiful in the wee hours of the morning, the streets reflect street lights beautifully and not having a camera almost gives you your vacation back. Off to Brussels for a day before it starts raining geeks.

Brussels - Ah, the simplicity of childhood! The museum dedicated to Herge is about an hour's train ride from Brussels and it was such a delight to be there! The museum is dedicated to all of Herge's works and of course celebrates his star, Tintin.  I've not been a Tintin fan, but am now ready to change that. A mucho delicioso lunch at the museum's restaurant and it starts snowing. The weather's warmer now,  there's snow all over me and I am instantly reminded of Chi-town winters (mental note to go back this year). The vacation's done but another one is just beginning. The FOSDEM conference is nothing short of a treat. 429 talks in 2 days, 5000 hackers, try beating that! I'd come back every year if I could. So much to learn, so little time!

Seems like I am away from home forever now. I miss Simba, I miss my bed, I miss my friends, my morning cuppa chai and yes, I am a geek, I do miss my work. Relaxed, rejuvenated , ready and raring to go. It's been a great week in Europe and as always, I take a piece of it with me, ever willing to come back for more. Until next time...

Thursday, September 29, 2011

Italia


14 days ago, we began a journey through time, through centuries of history. Rome was most definitely not built in a day. Neither was Monaco, Venice or the quintessential Florence. Italy is a feast for each and every sense. The sights, smells, sounds, sensation and savor are taken for a roller coaster ride and doused into something incredible.

Nice - Nice is the most unique mix of quaint-modern. Reminds me of Bombay-Hyderabad. Folks sitting in cafes facing the road, coffee that smells like it was made in heaven, bread like Jesus probably tasted. Time seems to move at a slower pace here. Women can run in 6 inch heels, men boldly wear pink, kids ride their scooters to school (not in their parents' gas guzzling SUVs).


Monaco - the alleys of Monaco! Painted in the most wonderful pastels, stores with little trinkets, shacks with indescribable gnocchi as you eat facing the prince's palace, Monaco is a joy to be in. We now take the train up to Genova. Sweetie is dozing off as I write this, we've been at it non-stop and sleeps's finally catching up.


Cinque Terre - The Cinque Terre are 5 villages by the water - Monterosso, Vernazza, Manarola, Corniglia and Riomaggiore. They are not as quaint as they sound. The unfortunate thing is this - thanks to Rick Steeves, who popularized these villages, they are not as "rustic" as I would have liked them to be. Crowded, the water is not attractive, what with the, dare I say, "younger, more boisterous" crowd. Nevertheless, pretty unique, they, in my opinion, need to take many steps back to what they originally were. Quaint, simple, original.


Firenze - We then drive on to the city of Firenze. Driving trough Italy is a definite test to one's marriage. If you've survived it and not managed to kill each other, you're probably with the right person. I exaggerate but only a little. The street signs in Firenze could clearly be improved, the limited zones (which is like 50% of the streets)  marked with flashing lights since Google maps knows nothing about them, that combined with a stick shift, and a near palpitating navigator figuring out the directions, the good ol' map way, not easy! I've said this many times and this trip just reinstated any doubts I may have had. Sweetie was born to drive. He was so at ease with the stick, it's just impressive (even if I say so myself, any wife knows how hard it was to accept that!) All said and done, I've never been this relieved dropping off a car!

We did Pisa, San Gimignano and Siena by car with Firenze as our base.

Pisa is about an hour's drive from Firenze. The city is very small with barely anything other than of course, the leaning tower. It was every bit as awesome as I had imagined. The day was perfect, the light was ideal for some good shots, the highlight being Sweetie taking pictures of our brothers and sisters from the north standing in weird poses to topple, push, hold the leaning tower. One guy actually made a face like King Kong (the resemblance was uncanny!) as if he was eating the tower up or something? Total fun watching him ding his poor wife as he stood in these weird poses as the poor woman shot his pictures. Ah, the joys of laughing at our neighbors!


Thanks to my dear friend Shwety, we added San Gimignano to our itinerary and..boy oh boy! What a delightfully quaint city! Surrounded by the Tuscan wine country, San Gimignano is walled on 4 sides by stone walls, inside it are these little narrow streets lined with small shops selling soap, Italian art and gelato. One city I will not forget the rest of my life! Siena which is a short drive from San Gimignano,  failed to impress me as much.

The last 2 days were spent in exploring Firenze. My legs are killing me but the sights were every bit as beautiful as I had heard. The Church of St. Croce, Palazzo Michelangelo (panoramic view of the city), Church of Santa Maria Novella (we were so tired, we took a nap on the grass at the Piazza), Palazzo Pitti, Uffizzi Gallery and last but definitely not the least, the David. While I was not weak in my knees seeing the famed statue, I did mange to grab a spot on the floor to admire the feat of the master Michelangelo and the statue just takes you with it, to the times that were, to times where heroes breathed the air around you, heroes with slings who killed wicked giants. Off to the city of Venice this morning and as I blog on the train, I will miss the city of Firenze, the smell of coffee on every small street, the afternoon naps in the middle of a square, food that was clearly made for the Gods, gelato after every meal, walking till your feet give up, cappuccino that revives every sense and every tired nerve, talking to friendly barristas while your sip your coffee standing at the bar, little tiny shops with old tiny ladies who dream of visiting India, I take with me, all these wonderful moments. On to the city of Venice!


Venezia - Ah, the magical city of Venice! Every one has an imagination of the drama this city is filled with, and none of that is exaggeration. Venice is an impossible dream right in front of your eyes and as you take in each minute of this wonderous feat of man, you feel like you are transported to an older time. As with most cities I've seen so far, the crowds are a big turn off and Venice  is no different. But not far from Venice is Murano, a short water taxi from Venice. This is where the famed Murano glass comes from and I was spellbound by this city. It's exactly like Venice, houses on both sides of a canal, the famous arcs in the middle of the canal, but much less crowded. If you don't care about touristy places, this is your Venice. Sweetie and I found the Venice we were looking for in Murano. As we sat on the steps facing the canal in front of a house with balconies full of flowers, I felt like I was one with this lovely place. The experience can only be put in words so much, these barely do any justice to what I have in my heart for Venice. I'd like to take my closest friends with me, show them the Italy I've seen, away from the herds of people, and Murano is just the right dose of Venice. We reach Rome in an hour. I hope the awe of the sights beats the turn off of the crowds.


Roma - Rome! This city is built by people who either loved it immensely or were "adequately" pressurized by people who loved it for reasons I will not care to elaborate. Whatever the motivation be, a traveller gets to enjoy the wonder that is Rome. The city is incredibly dirty, the key is to expect that and appreciate Rome beyond the crap on the streets. Every little detail put into every little art form is beyond description. One can only attribute the gift that the great sculptors and painters had was God's and God's alone. How else can one explain Bernini producing wondrous art forms at an age of 20? Just plain born with it, IMO. I personally loved the Borghese museum, the audio guide was the only one worth the money. The Colosseum was great, needless to say, but the barbaric nature of the feats for entertainment purposes is not something I can stomach. Wonders of the world, sure. I can't quite put my finger on whether I like the Romans or despise them. Bah, doesn't really matter I guess. Definitely a higher order of human beings. Walking down one of the alleys, it struck me! Why were all the great artists all born during the 15th, 16th century? Where did they all go, and why can't we see some like them now? Turns out they are around. We call them Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Armani. Well, that's my take. We take the train down to Naples to visit the city was that turned to ashes by the mighty Vesuvius - the mysterious city of Pompeii.


Napoli/Pompeii - Pompeii was such a miraculous last minute addition! I find that I tend to love discovering older civilizations, how people lived, what they did for a living, what mattered to them, what pissed them off. I can spend hours just wandering these ruins armed with vivid imagination. Pompeii is one of the most preserved excavations ever discovered in the world, there were certain homes with their kitchens with tandoor kind of ovens in some cases, with their original color intact. The people of Pompeii had a massive stadium, a gym (not kidding!), lavish baths and a common forum area. It seems sad that all of this was destroyed in less than a day by mount Vesuvius' eruption. Such a waste. If Pompeii made me ecstatic, Napoli shocked me. We walked one block in search of some grub and literally ran back into the train station. Horrible streets, questionable looking people, stench everywhere, good heavens, terrible! That's it for the day, can't wait to go back hit the sack. Another day in Rome and it's back home!


Crowds, dirt, incredible amount of passive smoking, all aside, delight is an understatement to describe what I feel for Italy. I feel like a child in Disneyland, like an artist in a museum, like a singer sitting through symphony, like a chef at a feast. The world is truly an amazing place and it is humbling to be part of this much history. There is so much to see, so little time. I truly believe that every individual must travel as much as life and commitments permit. It is through these travels that we humans tend to realize how much we owe our ancestors who made this world what it is today. It instills a sense of responsibility, a sense of awareness that we cannot make a mess of this labor of love. We have no right to destroy anything that we have not built. Seeing all this grandeur brings one down to one's knees and prods one to ask the question - what can I do as a citizen of this world? I don't believe in the boundaries anymore, let me be one with the world.

Thursday, July 21, 2011

Riviera Maya Series

A thousand years went by. An entire civilization rose and fell. Left behind countless footprints of its presence. How did a culture so ancient, so rustic, so limited in it's facilities, manage to contribute so much? The Mayans were nothing short of geniuses. Experts in medicine, astronomy, architecture, they were one with nature, getting from it and giving back to it. They went on to predict seasons, understood the path of the sun which enabled them to define the concept of a year earlier, much earlier than the modern world with all its advanced tools could. They designed and built stupendous monuments, never using the of aid of animals for the most part. A vast majority of these architectural feats still stand intact, standing the test of nature, time and invaders. Built with the most basic materials, these monuments are symmetric, the sculpting on them, unbelievably sophisticated. Most of the constructions are dedications to the Gods. Brings about the thought that the Mayans were fully aware that there were forces beyond their control, things they didn't know existed that could cause potential harm. Also probably why, they tried to understand and assimilate, basic things. Things that a high percentage of people of our day and age will never spend a minute of their lives pondering about.

You know the year is off to a great start when you get to go off to a land where you journey through times past, become part of a stunning phenomenon, sunbathe in pristine beaches, all while enjoying the company of wonderful friends. When I go on vacations such as this one, I realize that what I have seen so far is infinitesimal in comparison to what the world has to offer. So much to see, so much to take in, so much to learn, so little time.

We are incredibly lucky. We have so much, in terms of resources, comforts and facilities, that we tend to forget to stop and say thanks to these predecessors of ours who toiled, gave blood, sweat and tears to make the world what it is today. The least we can do is give back, in our own little ways, and at the very least, attempt to contribute towards making the world what it will be in a thousand years from now.

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Brazil Series

We are in Brazil to celebrate Hardik's 30th birthday. It has been a thoroughly enriching experience, to say the least. We went from a full blown city to the depths of the Amazonian jungles. I am sore beyond description, my legs are swollen, I haven't slept a full night's sleep in days, been bitten by mosquitoes and yet I have never been this thrilled.

I am at a loss of words to describe a trip where I've  been in close proximity to beings/things that include a fabulous local Brazilian singer with a voice that could shake up an entire bar, perfectly sculpted Samba dancers, and baby Cayman alligators. We took 8 seater vans seating 15, a moonlight ride in the Amazon rain-forest, saw one of the newest wonders of the worlds, fished for piranhas, drank sugarcane juice at midnight. This just begins to describe the firecracker that is trip has been so far!

Rio De Janeiro
We started off the trip with a visit to a local bar since we absolutely had to see soccer in a country where saying that people are devoted to soccer is an understatement, especially when Brazil. I've never seen people so passionate about the sport, their country and so expressive about it. Sadly Brazil was out of WC 2010 the day we watched. To our shock, we see ambulances whizzing past which is strangely very common among the locals. Dedication, I tell ya!

We lived right on Copacabana beach. This being their low season, Copacabana was an absolute delight. The crowds were much lesser, almost unfamiliar when thinking of Copacabana. We could see the favelas, the slums of Rio from the other side of the beach, the vendors would come sell us stuff and we would cumulatively ward them off with our broken Portuguese.  The newly renovated Christ the redeemer statue lit yellow and green at night was stunning. We watched a Brazilian favorite, the Samba show, had amazing fresh fruit juices, coconut water, all interspersed with soccer matches. One of the nights, we went to this place called Rio Scenarium, a bar which  has local singers performing, loads and loads of Brazilian antiques, absolutely beautiful and something I've never seen before. Our last day in Rio ended with a trip to the local farmer's market and the hippie market. The farmer's market was a total delight with tapioca crepes and totally novel tropical fruits. We picked up some Brazilian fare at the hippie market and some coffee which one cannot leave Brazil without.

Foz De Iguassu (Iguassu Falls)
Our next stop was the stupendous Iguassu falls. The city in itself is a very small one centered around the falls and the power plant, the plant being the biggest in the world in power generation. We visited the Itaipu Dam on day 1 there. The tour of the dam, though not our ideal choice as engineers, in terms of how much we would have liked to see, was nevertheless a very interesting one. We went to the Argentine side of the falls the next day. Words cannot describe the beauty of the 270 falls that form the Iguassu. I hear that Niagara falls short in comparison to this natural wonder. I am thoroughly speechless with the sights that the falls have in store for us. My personal favorite moment was when we hit the devil's throat. It is a humbling experience to see the creator's handiwork. Very well preserved and maintained by the South Americans. The next day, we visited the Brazilian side of the falls which had the panoramic view. We ended the trip with a 50m high rappelling drop. Total adrenal rush and surreal at the same time.

Manaus
As I write this, we've just spent half a day in the Ecopark in the middle of the Amazon rainforest. We went to see the wooly monkeys and the lone red faced female primate. Ended the day with a great dinner and a moonlight ride to sight some Cayman Alligators. Our guide took a few of us and brought back with him a baby alligator (shreeik even now thinking of it). The stars are unbelievably clear which was what I enjoyed more. There is something terribly, incorrigibly wonderful that the romantic in me loves about star gazing. That accompanied with the sounds of the Amazon has finally inspired me to sit down and blog this trip finally. More coming as we wrap this amazing trip up in two more days.

Needless to say, Day 2 in the EcoPark was just spectacular. We started off with taking a hike in the Amazon forest. Our guide Antonio, showed us plants which had medicinal powers, plants used by jealous wives to poison their cheating husbands, made handicrafts with palm tree leaves (yes, we brought back some), had us climb trees which were smooth as a bald man's head and showed us how the tribes made telephone calls using tree signals. It's amazing what the forest has to offer to it's inhabitants and all that needs to be done is some trial and error to figure her out.

We spent the rest of the day visiting the village of an indigenous tribe. These folks pretty much live a very basic life, using money on sugar, salt and rice. Everything else is cultivated near their homes. Pretty basic. There were 4 families with one of the families consisting of the leader of the tribe. I find that he is by no means a sinister or angry person. On the contrary, he is in great spirits as he performs for us, the rituals of the natives, playing their musical instruments, as the ladies of the tribe join along. They pose for pictures with us, and show us their hand made crafts. Very artistically done, the money is used to sustain the tribe. To me, the thing that struck most was that, the leader is not playing the role of a dictator but one of a person who gives direction to the tribe while letting them grow. When I told the leader that I would like to look at another tribal mask in another row, he very courteously pointed me to the lady from anothernfamily who owned that part of the fare. Very fair. :)

The last day in the Amazon was just as interesting. We sailed to the meeting point of Rio Negro and Rio Solemoes, the former being way more acidic than the latter, thus creating a very clear limit line between the black Rio Negro and the brown Rio Solemoes. We stick our hands into the water to compare the obvious temperature difference between the two rivers. The two rivers at this point become the Amazon. 18 miles wide at it's widest point, the Amazon sustains birds, insects and marine life and flows it's way down to the Atlantic. We then move on to see the floating houses by the tributaries of these rivers. The people living in these houses are fisherman who also grow their own vegetables and fruits. The lifestyle is meager, the families are big and the people seem happy as they wave to us passing by. I see a frail old man with his ribs showing, smiling and happier than the magazine pictures of Lindsay Lohan as she bounces in and out of rehab. The people seem staunch believers of God as in obvious by the only floating house that is maintained in perfect shape, the church. One of the village boys jumps up a tree and drags a sloth down for us to see. Almost as cute as Simba, the sloth holds on to dear life as the boy manhandles the little thing. All this for some Reals that we hand over to the kiddo.

On the way back, in the ferry, everyone is silent. As I watch the moon and the clear lit sky bounce off of the Amazon, my silence is due to the past 10 days that run like a movie reel in my head. I want to blog my thoughts right then but I decide against it to be able to enjoy the last 30 minutes of the rainforest. My thoughts range from the city of Rio in it's touristy bounty to the Amazonian floating houses overflowing with people (who have pets too!!). Travel is such an eye-opening experience at times. Makes one realize how different our lives are from our neighbors, people in the next city, state, country and continent. The needs and wants vary in astounding proportions, the things that make one happy are not even close to being similar and the gifts that one has been given as a human being, not fair at all. Yet there is faith in one higher power, trust that life today is better than yesterday and if not, will be better tomorrow. I am enlightened and leave Brazil knowing so much more and feeling so much more luckier in what I have been given in life. I leave Brazil, hopefully a little wiser.